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          | This 
            is the First stage | Atlas 
            Trekking Marrakech
 | Next:Ouzoud
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         While Leo visited Marrakech on several occasions, his motivations for 
        coming at the early stages of the Sa'adian rise (before 1524 and their 
        capture of marrakech of course!) were those of an ambassador:
 
        
          "I 
            was traveling then, leaving the army of the King, and going to Marrakech 
            to tell the ruler and the Sharif Prince that the king was on his way, 
            so that they could prepare for his arrival and for the upcoming battle 
            with the Portuguese" (Leo, 125)  
        Leo's Marrakech 
          was a rather decrepit one, a city whose earlier times of glory had faded, 
          and whose future times were still in the making (as the rising Sa'dian 
          dynasty would make it its capital). Leo looks upon this fallen city 
          which much empathy: 
             
         " 
          [There once was ] a great beautiful garden with many types of flowers 
          and trees. There was a square bungalow, entirely made of marble, at 
          the heart of which stood a column holding a marble lion out of whose 
          mouth came a constant stream of clear water. At each corner of the bungalow 
          there was a white marble leopard. This marble is found in only one area 
          of the Atlas, 150 miles from Marrakech. (...) There are only a few remnants 
          of this city's past, but these attest to the pomp and glory of Marrakech 
          at the time of El Mansor. Today, all these beauties are home to crows, 
          owles and other birds. And this magnificent garden has become the city 
          dumpster!" (Leo, 106)
 Only 
        the Koutoubia, the city's most magestic mosque still stood uncorrupted:  
         "Inside 
          the tower [minaret] there are seven beautiful rooms, each above the 
          other. The ramp is perfectly lit as there are many carefully decorated 
          windows, which are bigger from the inside than from the outside. At 
          the top of the tower there is a smaller tower in the shape of a pyramid. 
          It has three floors which one can climb to using the wooden staircase. 
          At the top of this pyramid there stands a long branch which holds three 
          golden globes, each smaller than the one below it. All three weigh 93 
          Italian pounds (31 kilos). At the top of this pyramid, one can look 
          down, as if looking out from a ship. Below, men seem as short as little 
          children. You can see the mountain of Safi, 130 miles from Marrakech 
          [Safi is a port on the Atlantic].
 Inside, 
          the temple is not particularly ornate. The ceiling is made of sculpted 
          wood, as they do in Italian churches. Truly, this is one of the most 
          beautiful temples in the world." (Leo, 101)   This 
        description of the Koutoubia as seen from inside is a real treat for all 
        non-muslims who are not allowed to visit mosques in Morocco. |