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            |  Today, 
        Tetouan is a beach resort, attracting vacationers of all sorts, Moroccans 
        and foreigners alike. Martil, Tetouan's closest port and once den of ruthless 
        Moroccan corsairs is now one endless stretch of white sand, and a boardwalk, 
        replete with shop stalls, vacation homes and parasols. In the winter months, 
        the town has a bit of a ghostly feel, but one can still sense the crowds 
        it hosted last summer and the hordes it is preparing for. 
 Jon and I visited Martil and its upscale neighbor "Cabo Negro" 
        (the name being yet
 
 another 
        remnant of the Spanish presence in Northern Morocco) in May-- just as 
        the weather was warming up, but not tourist temperature yet. My "English 
        Channel" blood could not resist a swim in the Mediterranean's cool 
        waters.  Up 
        the coast, a few miles North of Tetouan, the port of Mdiq seems to have 
        retained a bit more of its past: an active fishing community with boats 
        of all sizes and repairmen to keep the fleet alive.  
  The 
        small Church, neighboring a Marabout (Muslim saint's tomb) charmingly 
        reminds us of the many cultures and religions that roamed these lands. 
        The local people's eagerness to switch from Moroccan to Spanish, then 
        to French is indicative of over 5 centuries of close kinship- though most 
        is owed to the 50 years of French and Spanish protectorate in these lands 
        ( 1912 to 1956). 
 As we walked along the beaches, snuck into ports and flashed our cameras 
        at busy fishermen, we couldn't help wondering at the odd effects of time, 
        which turns a mighty, threatening coast into a pleasure cove, where all 
        live in relative peace. An unexpected heritage for corsairs to leave behind!
 
 
        
          |  Fisherman 
              in Mdiq |  The 
              Church in Mdiq |  
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