Expeditions in Morocco

Leo notes

Caravan notes

Cristel notes

Dangers and Annoyances of the Caravan Route

While today's Figuig is an oasis of calm and tranquility, there was a time when its inhabitants were not so peaceful. The 7 ksars (fortified village) that make up the community fought vigorously against each other- as can be seen today in the great wooden doors that protect every neighborhood and in the watchtowers that look over every intersection.

In those days, the inhabitants of Figuif fought for water, their most precious resource for agriculture and life.

Night watchers were posted at these small windows

A defensive tower along the city walls

Water does marvels....

The recently tamed aggressivity of these desert people epitomizes of a whole culture of danger and survival which caravan leaders had to plan for during their long trips. Here are a few annoyances they could expect to encounter:

1. Drought: According to Leo, some Saharan deserts did not contain water for 100 or 200 miles at a time. THis could be lethal, as routes were over 1000 miles long and water needed to be replenished regularly, to soothe both men and animals. Water was by far the most precious commodity:

"In the Azoad desert, there are two tombs indicating the place of death of two men. One was a rich merchant who was lost and thirsty, and purchased a sip of water from the other, a simple traveler, for 10 000 ducats. Both died of thirst." (Leo, 53)

2. Heat: Caravans only traveled in Winter- to avoid the summer's treacherous heat. In Figuig during the summer, temperatures easily reach 50 degrees Celcius. The Figuigois then usually spend most of the day in the shade of a palm tree, bathing in their pond sized pools.

"On the road from Fes to Timbuktu, there are a few wells, lined with camel skin. It is extremely dangerous for merchants to travel during any other time than Winter, otherwise the sand storms cover these wells making it impossible for anyone to find them." (Leo, 53)

To avoid heat and draught, caravans traveled during the Winter season:

"In the desert, if the rainy season lasts through November, December, January and part of February then grass grows in many places and there are many lakes. Milk is also produced in great quantities. This is why Moroccan merchants travel during these months.." (Leo, 58)

3. Sandstorms: sudden and violent gusts of wind that could immobilize a caravan for days.

4. Thieves: Any caravan charged with precious goods was bound to draw the envy of mercenaries, especially in places where they make an easy target. In Leo's days, these caravan thieves were essentially nomadic Arab tribes, for whom he had no kind words. About one such tribe he says:

"This desert is home to a bunch of thieves; Arabs ready to murder people on the road from Fes to Tlemcen (in Algeria)" (Leo, 327)

Mountain passes were ideal places for assaulting caravans- Figuig is tucked between two mountain passes, which its own villagers patrolled and controlled (the word Figuig actually means "mountain passes").

5. Dependence on guides and protectors Given these dangers, caravans paid for guides to lead them across the desert, and guards to fight any thieves that may decide to attack the convoy.

"At times we lost our way because our guide made a mistake, othertimes ennemies blocked our way" (Leo, 54)

Today the Figiguois have forgotten their instincts of survival and aggressivity- water rights are closely regulated, and an army of immigrants to France and Spain send enough money home to provide well for the 11, 000 remaining villagers. This new found peace was in part brought about by the French during the Protectorate- they actually used their pacifying claims to 'colonize' much of the region. Figuig's present welcoming atmosphere can be read in the Berber Salam (Peace) sign drawn on every door.

Water pipes allow for everyone to use the sources' water.

Salam sign ( in Berber ideograms)