Tafraout
lessons from the field

Salvaging Rain
    It has not rained in this part of Morocco for the past 4 years- don't blame me if it poured on our entire vacation. I have stopped counting the number of times I repeat this every day- somehow my family seems convinced I purposely drew them to a damp, bleak area of Morocco!

When it it not pouring rain, we run out of the hotel to soak in the timid rays. Even then the air is still damp and cold- heavy with upcoming showers. Add Ramadan to the mix, and we sometimes feel we are the only walking souls for miles. Witness Amy's thick coat, and the empty streets.      To strengthen the morale, I try to remind them that it has not rained for ages, and that we should be celebrating with the rest of the people- celebrating the coming of water and the temporary end of the draught. Around us, we notice withering cactuses and burnt lands. Our waiters tell us that the region is coming dangerously close to starvation- as the lack of water makes it impossible to grow any crops.

We leave Tafraout on Wednesday December 27th- the end of Ramadan. Around us people smoke compulsively- as if chain gang cigarette consumption can make up for 29 days of daytime privation. 29 days since the start of Ramadan, on November 28th. Today is Eid- the end of Ramadan celebration. Not one soul in the streets- everyone is at the mosque, then in family or friends' homes. This is the day of reconciliation- a time to forget old disputes and start on a new ground. Muslims have been doing this for 1421 years- and the calm of the streets is sign of their expertise ( no one disturbing the religious calm). This morning I was awoken by an unusually festive Muezzin call to prayer- from the depths of my sleep it seemed as if the entire town were rocking away. The early wake up was welcome though- and we took advantage of this morning departure to walk through more mountain Oasis. The weather was good- and I heard no complaints!