Today, Safi has lost much of its coastal charm.

As the second greatest port in Morocco, it owes much of its wealth to the mining and exporting of phosphates- a crucial ingredient in the making of fertilizers. Just South of Safi, the coast is deformed by many a gargantuan refinery, with tubes, colors, smoke stacks and huge campuses. One has the odd feeling of having been thrown into a life size Lego set!

The contrast between old fortifications and shiny refineries is quite striking!

 

Aside from phosphates and refineries, Safi is also known for its pottery. An entire neighborhood, "La colline des pottiers" (the hill of potters) vibrates from the noises of beating clay, revolving disks and silent carvings. The occasional smell of coal reminds us that 'something is cooking'.

Having planned our visit at noon, when most cities shut down, Jon and I were lucky to find a lone potter eager to share his skills. Watching the young man spin his wheel with seemingly no effort, Jon grew bold and wanted to try for himself.

 

The resulting 'flower pot' was no comparison to the professional's 10 second tagine [two piece serving dish in which Moroccan cook and serve their famed meat and vegetable stews], but everyone was impressed!