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            | First 
        Days In Morocco:  We 
        got off the plane in Rabat, on a sunny Moroccan morning. The airport was 
        small- its quaintness reinforced by the sweltering heat and the memory 
        of the tent cities we had just flown over. My friend Jon and I were both 
        a little overwhelmed by the reality of it all, or rather the absence of 
        any familiar reality. We went through the motions nonetheless, braving 
        customs, rusty baggage carousels and relentlessly nagging taxi drivers.
 The Moroccan 
        American Cultural Exchange Commission had arranged for our first few days 
        in the country. Hotels had been booked, travel arrangements made. This 
        was customary for new Fulbright arrivals in Morocco. Yet, somehow, none 
        of us ever 
        really knew what we were supposed to be doing or where we were supposed 
        to be until the last possible instant. And when we thought we knew, something 
        unexpected would occur, reminding us that that this year would have something 
        to teach us about "taking it easy". A good lesson for anybody, 
        I might add.  Two 
        days in Rabat, morning and afternoon orientation sessions... A crash course 
        in Moroccan everything: from religion to politics, with an occasional 
        stop at cuisine, culture, manners. Between sessions, Jon and I would hit 
        the streets of Rabat, taking in some first hand impressions- gardens, 
        terraces overlooking the raging Atlantic, century old mosques. We wandered 
        around quite a bit, trying to absorb the feel of the city, the pulse of 
        the land. I hoped secretly that I would be able to divine my potential 
        for happiness here: could I possibly live in this city for the next 10 
        months? I left with a positive impression and an urge to return.
 In the meantime, 
        I had some business to start and finish in Fes.The Commission sent all 9 of us to Fes, for a 5 week training stunt in 
        Moroccan language and culture. To have to start my travels in Fes was 
        a welcomed blessing, as Leo Africanus once spent his childhood and adolescence 
        in this city. It felt right to start in the same place Leo's life and 
        thoughts had originated from.
 Superstition? Perhaps...
 Or simply the desire to do things in the right order.
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